Milleman wines:
a star rises
The star is often used as a metaphor for something exceptional…
A movie star is a person whose mere presence in a film gives it the gravity to draw fans to the cinema. A five-star hotel is one where receiving the highest levels of service and comfort is a basic expectation. A restaurant with three Michelin stars offers one of the greatest gastronomic experiences on the planet.
There’s currently no official vinous equivalent of a three Michelin star wine producer. Yet, if the charity gala organised by the Millemann family this November in support of the Princess Grace of Monaco foundation was anything to go by, Pierre Millemann is such a producer.
Held at Alléno Paris au Pavillon Ledoyen on Paris’ Champs-Elysée, the evening attracted many of Burgundy’s most acclaimed producers, as well as Burgundy aficionados from all over the world. The restaurant offered an eight-course tasting menu, each accompanied by a glass of truly exceptional wine, ranging from 100 point 2009 Montrose, via 2014 DRC Richebourg poured from magnum, to Millemann’s own 2017 Corton-Charlemagne.
Burgundy’s Newest Great Producer.
Those unacquainted with Millemann Wines may have already tasted many of the wines made by this stellar new Burgundy producer; Millemann is one of France’s greatest winemaking consultants, with clients including Domaine Dujac in Burgundy, Piemonte’s Gaja, and dozens of other greats from Austria to Oregon.
His most recent project sees him making exquisite Burgundy wines solely from fruit grown in Grand Cru vineyards. While Millemann does not own any of the vineyards himself, he takes total control of their management, and the quality of the resulting wines is exceptional.
Millemann Corton-Charlemagne 2017.
I sat during dinner next to a UK collector, whose cellar includes magnficent parcels from Domaine Bizot, DRC and many other great Burgundy producers. Nevertheless his wine of the dinner service was Millemann’s 1017 Corton-Charlemagne, which while still very young, showed stellar intensity, vitality and depth. A wine with truly exciting and compelling potential.
After dinner, the auction began, offering a very small number of magnums for sale, which are made by Millemann each vintage exclusively to raise money for charity. Each individual magnum features a bespoke artist-designed label, making every bottle a truly rare collectable.
The energy in the room was near-incandescent. Bidding was fierce, with many lots attracting hand-raises throughout the room. However, the deepest pockets belonged to a collector from China, whose top bid for three of the most sought-after magnums reached €30,000.