Greg Sherwood 95

This is certainly one of the most ambitious Assyrtikos from Santorini that I ve tasted in a long time. The grapes come from three different vineyards all over 60 years old, in Fira, Akrotiri and Megalochori. The wine was fermented and matured in 750 litre and 1,600 litre clay amphorae for 16 months and then left on its fine lees with no oak usage. The aromatics are strikingly rich and exotic but always showing some telltale stony, mineral hints from the amphorae, over complex notes of grapefruit marmalade, white peach, fig preserve, lemon rind, lemon tart, honeysuckle, oystershell and subtle talc nuances. The fullbodied palate has all the Paris Sigalas hallmark richness and ripeness, intricately interwoven freshness and notes of oatmeal dough, wet basalt, white peaches, honeycomb and a savoury leesy intensity. The concentration is such that the intensity of fruit almost resembles a dry botrytis wine, layered, textural and wonderfully glycerol in the mouth. This is undoubtedly a wine for Assyrtiko connoisseurs. Drink now or allow it to age gracefully for 8 to 10 years. [Greg Sherwood, MW, 01/02/2025]